Asian Megacities: Hong Kong, Seoul, Osaka and Tokyo
In early May 2018, I took a two-week trip to new destinations that had been on my bucket list for years. To get the most out of my trip, I tried to include as many cities and countries as possible and got to see some old friends from school whom I had been hoping to reunite with for a long time. All in all, it was truly a grand trip!
Hong Kong: The Vertical City
I arrived in Hong Kong on a direct flight from Dubai on Emirates. Based on my itinerary, I only had about 48 hours in the city state, so I made sure I’d get the most out of the first stop on my Asia trip.
My flight arrived just at about dawn and I took a taxi from the airport to the City Garden Hotel in North Point on Hong Kong Island. I could have taken the HK express train from the airport to downtown, but given that I was unfamiliar with the city, and after a somewhat long and tiring flight, I took a taxi instead. Hong Kong is divided into several districts, but most tourist attractions are on Hong Kong Island, with some in the Kowloon area and The New Territories just across Victoria Harbor.
Splendid Views of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak
A major port city, Hong Kong served as a British territory and colony for over one hundred years, and that influence evident in some of the cities landmarks and street names, upon approaching the city, visitors also notice how tall most residential building are, and the city feels highly compact. Due to the limited space and high population, real estate in Hong Kong is some of the most expensive in the world. Consumer prices in the city are also very high for an Asian city, which can be a downside for many visitors. Still, tourists get to experience a highly pulsating city that bustles with activity.
Unlike most of Mainland China, the language spoken here is Cantonese. Hong Kong maintains a distinct history and identity from that of its much larger neighbour.
Despite the early morning hours, I was able to check in early, and drop off my luggage and head out to explore the city. The City Garden Hotel offers mostly standard rooms and amenities, but it is conveniently located a short drive (or a few subway stops) from the city centre, which was where I headed and was met with swarms of people rushing to work on a Friday morning. I enjoyed a coffee while watching the sea of nearby pedestrians before leaving downtown and across Kowloon for my next destination.
The Hong Kong Heritage Museum, located in the sleepy Sha Tin neighborhood of The New Territories, is relatively small and left me feeling a bit underwhelmed. Nonetheless, it had two highlight exhibition rooms: The Cantonese Opera heritage hall, with elaborate costumes and set decorations offering a glimpse into a past craft, as well an exhibition honoring Hong-Kong born Bruce Lee’s life, with collectibles and relics from his Kung-Fu legacy.
After the museum, I took a walk along the Sha Tin neighborhood and along the Shing Mun river while trying to find the nearby Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery, one of the most famous temples in Hong Kong. I did not find the monastery, but I did stumble upon a very tranquil spot.
Unbeknownst to me at the time, I walked up a hilly trail with small pagodas assuming it was a temple. It ended up being the Sha Tin (Poo Fook Hill Columbarium) Cemetery. One thing I noticed upon climbing up the many steps were the turtle terrariums. In local customs, turtles represent life and longevity. This is one of Hong Kong’s largest places where locals are laid to rest and where their ashes, along with portraits of the deceased are stored. There is a funicular at the top, with gratifying views of the surrounding neighborhood. The pagodas and Buddha statues made think I was at a temple, when in fact I was at a cemetery. It ended up being a nice, if somewhat unusual way, for me to pay respect to the local citizens of Hong Kong on my first there!
Afterwards, I took the crowded Hong Kong subway to North Point station and took an afternoon nap in my hotel. In the evening, I headed to central to meet my old school friend Nancy for Cantonese dinner and drinks. A busy professional in Hong Kong’s thriving scene, she gave me a walking tour of the neighborhood and where all the major banks were headquartered on our way to dinner, which included a wide variety of dim sum baskets.
Afterwards, we headed up to the iconic 25th floor SEVVA bar, with a terrace overlooking Hong Kong’s landmark buildings and skyscrapers, and the Victoria Harbor. Surrounded by a kaleidoscope of changing neon lights from the nearby building, drinks at this upscale rooftop bar is like buying a ticket to a light show. Towards the end of the night, we walk up LKF (Lan Kwoi Fong), a street fool of roudy bars and nightclubs that Hong Kong’s numerous expats visit for barhopping on weekends. It is referred to by locals as “the place where British people go to drink” and offers a shocking contrast from the atmosphere of posh suits, politeness and business-ready demeanor one sees in central Hong Kong at daytime.
Hong Kong Central, One of the Busiest and Most Upscale Shopping Districts in the World
The next day, and nursing a slight hangover, I had dim sum for brunch at my hotel before walking around and taking in all the sights and sounds of the North Point neighborhood, which has a very local and is less catered towards expats. Afterwards, I spent more time in the central neighborhood before stopping for lunch at the groovy Hollywood Street. At the end, I lined up for what seemed to be over an hour for my ticket and ride on the tram to the peak. The Peak is the highest point on the island, and offers the most scenic views of the whole city. It is a sight not to be missed.
Considering that I had an early morning flight to Seoul, along with a very busy itinerary for the following days, my trip to Hong Kong was very introductory and served as entry point to the resr of my trip. It is said that there are over 600 temples in Hong Kong alone. It is a city that is also famous for its urban parks and gardens, as well as its outdoor markets, which I would have loved to explore had I had more time.
Hong Kong Pros:
A major international city and airport hub
The perfect mixture of East meets West
Good food
Foreigner-friendly and English is widely spoken
Some of the best skyline views in the world
Very safe
Hong Kong Cons:
Very pricey tourist destination
Extremely crowded
Three Days in Seoul: K-Culture Overload
I arrived in Seoul via a flight on the Hong Kong Express. The Seoul airport is actually located in the nearby city of Incheon. I boarded the express train to Seoul Station. The trip was comfortable and took about an hour in total. Afterwards, I hailed a taxi to my hotel, the Ramada in the Namdaemun area, where I had booked my three-night stay. The hotel was very average, but it was located close to major tourist attractions, as well as the nearby Namdaemum gate, one of the eight historic gates of the Fortress Wall of Seoul, which lit beautifully at night.
Outside the Gyeongbokgung National Palace
The Views of Seoul from the Hanock Traditional Village
After check-in, I took a short taxi ride to meet my local friend Jenny in the remarkable Insadong area. As a lover of souvenirs and handicrafts, I had done my research on Insadong in advance. The historic Insadong area is Seoul’s haven for artisanal stores and boutiques, art galleries and cafes tucked in the small surrounding alleyways. The main street has stretches several blocks, with independent stores and artisanal shops coexisting in harmony with larger chain stores, both housed in renovated shophouses. Tourists can buy everything from traditional and fusion fashion, to rice paper notebooks, antiques and lacquered goods, traditional masks and K-pop paraphernalia. Insadong effortly combines the old with the new and is a must-visit for everyone who comes to Seoul. We had lunch at one of the small family-run restaurants in the alleyway, which comprised of many varieties of kimchi, mandu and stews. The food in Seoul exceeded expectations and every meal I had there was mouthwatering. In the evening, we walked across a park and around the nearby hilly area of Samcheong, which offers more small boutiques and cafes located in quaint old houses that are beautifully illuminated at night, and had dinner there.
The next day, I got up early to explore more of this amazing city. I met Jenny by the statue of King Sejung, who created Korea’s Hangul alphabet characters. Visitors can have messages in Hangol characters hand written on traditional paper as a souvenir in the tents surrounding the square surrounding King Sejung’s statue. It is a short walk from the National Palace Museum of Korea. The free museum showcases Korea’s heritage across dynasties, from the prehistoric times to the 20th centuries, with royal treasures, beautiful Korean furniture used for altars and houses, and costumes of that the royals and soldiers wore. The museum is located inside the national palace, where we explored the enormous courtyard and got see the changing of the guard ceremony.
In the afternoon, we took a taxi from the national palace and up the hills of Bukagsan National Park, one of the many mountains that surround the city, each with their own hiking trails. We had lunch at the Sanmotunggi Café, a very popular hangout spot for the locals and a filming location for many K-dramas. The café offers several terraces with spectacular views from atop.
Later on, we explored the Bukchon Hanock village area, it is made up of many hilly alleyways with some of Seoul’s oldest houses and overlooking the city’s modern districts, adding a very unique juxtaposition of styles. The houses are very well preserved and continue to be inhabited to this day. There are posters all around asking tourists to not trespass or make too much noise as people actually live in those awesome houses.
My last day in Seoul was less busy with sightseeing. Jenny and I decided to spend the day in two neighborhoods, the upscale Gangnam, as well as the youthful Hungdae, famous for its indie music culture and large neon signs, for some shopping and people watching. While at a shop in Hungdae, we ran into Korean author Hwang Sok-Yong, one of Jenny’s favorite writers, so she asked him for an autograph and we took a picture with him. It was truly a memorable way to end my time in Korea.
Koreans are obsessed with Skincare, and one can find a skincare and cosmetics shop on virtually every street corner in Hungdae and Gangnam. Koreans also dress really well and are very fashion-forward. Seoul offers countless of unique clothing stores for all tastes and budgets.
While Korea is often overshadowed by its larger neighbors, China and Japan, it offers just as much exciting things to see and experience. The food is wonderful, and the people are very friendly and approachable. I would recommend Seoul to any K-culture enthusiast. It is truly a gem of a city.
Seoul, Korea Pros:
Local cuisine
Perfect blend of traditional and modern culture
Countless shopping options
Friendly locals
Clean, modern city with wide well-lit boulevards
Relatively affordable for tourists
Seoul, Korea Cons:
Occasional language barrier
Osaka and Kyoto: Two Adjacent Cities with Different Vibes
Dotonbori, Osaka, Japan’s Food Basket
I flew into Osaka International Airport from Seoul via Peach Air. My plan was to spend three days exploring historical Kyoto and Osaka, Japan’s second largest district, both of which are located in the Kansai region. Considering that Osaka offered more hotel options and at better rates, I chose to stay in Osaka for 3 nights and as a base from which to visit Kyoto on day trips. At the airport, I took the rapid train to the Osaka-Umeda station. The hotel that I booked my stay with, The Rihga Royal, proved to be outstanding, and offered shuttle bus station to and from Umeda station. Having arrived later in the evening, I had dinner in a small café in the neighborhood and had an early night to prepare for a long excursion the next day.
In the morning, I took the bus shuttle from my hotel to Osaka Umeda station and transferred to the high-speed bullet train for Kyoto, which took about 20 minutes. I had made sure to purchase my JR pass for the high-speed train in advance, which cost about $250 USD for a one-week pass. Visitors to Japan must purchase their JR pass with authorized travel agents in advance (available for 7, 14 or 21 days) for use on the subways, high-speed trains, busses and ferries. It can be used within one city or for inter-city and inter-regional transport.
Kyoto does not need of an introduction. It is Japan’s cultural capital and is famous for its many temples and shrines, royal palaces and stunning natural locations. It holds great cultural significance in Japan, as it was the imperial capital until 1869, when it was moved to Tokyo. Beyond its central station and apart from the many tourists who visit, the city of about 1.5 million inhabitants has a small town vibe. My first stop was the otherworldly Fushimi Inari-Taisha shrine. This temple is located at the base of a mountain, and is a long walk and hike up about 200 meters to the main shrine, with fox statues guarding the gates. Pathways adorned by the orange columns or Torii gates, each with an inscription, and walking up felt like being up in the clouds.
The Fushimi Inari-Taisha shrine is one of the most impressive places of worship I have ever visited, and offers a once-in-a lifetime kind of an experience. After a long hike, I went to the charming Gion district, made up of alleyways with traditional two-story houses for lunch. The Gion district is the birthplace of the Geisha tradition, and if lucky, visitors can spot a real geisha while getting lost in the inviting alleyways. I spent much of the late afternoon exploring the peaceful streets of Kyoto before taking the train back to Osaka.
Back in Osaka, I followed the maps offered by the free navigation phone at the hotel (one of the other perks of staying at the exception Rihga Royal hotel), and walked from Osaka’s main Umeda station to Namba station and nearby Dotonburi, Osaka’s entertainment district. Dotonburi is a busy neighborhood with some 3D signs advertising all kings of food and screaming at tourists to try the local food.
Takoyaki is a Popular Street Food from Osaka
Osaka is often referred to as ‘the Breadbasket’ and culinary capital of Japan. Takoyaki is one regional specialty that one must try at one of the many stalls in the boisterous Dotonburi. After treating myself to delicious Takoyaki, I was still hungry. I walked alongside the Ebisu bridge, connecting a canal lit by grandiose neon billboards, including the world-famous ‘Running Man’ sign and watched the boats carrying happy tourists along the canal. I stopped at one of the cafes on the Ebisu for my last meal of the day before heading back to my hotel.
The next morning, I took the train back to Kyoto. I went to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, a forest with a walkway surrounded by thousands of tall bamboo plants. The lush forest was a green and shady sanctuary on a hot May day. Afterwards, I walked around Tenryuji Temple, one of the most important (Buddhist) temples in Kyoto and Japan. It is surrounded by a small lake and an immaculately well-kept garden. It was a really hot day, and towards the end of the afternoon, I sat under the nearby Togetsu bridge, beside a river to cool off before tacking the train to Osaka in the early evening.
My stay in Osaka (and Kyoto) was short. If I had more time, I would have spent about 5 days in the region instead of 3. Needless to say, I did get a good introduction to some of Japan’s most important cities. On my next trip, I will make sure to spend at least a night in Kyoto to experience the evenings there, and will make sure to visit the Osaka castle as well.
Japanese Businessmen Catching up at Osaka Namba Station
Rural Japan: Seaside Izu and Picturesque Hakone
Halfway between Kyoto and Tokyo is Shizuko prefecture, where the small town of Hakone lies. Hakone is one of the most famous destination for its Onsen, or traditional Japanese hot springs and wellness retreats. After a lot of research, I made sure to include rural Shizoukoa on my itinerary on my way to Tokyo on the bullet train. The train ride was very comfortable, and I even got to see Mount Fuji from outside my window.
Sake Tasting Session
Considering that most accommodation options in Hakone were sold out at the time, I booked my 2-night stay at the closeby town of Ito on the Izu Peninsula of the Shizouka Prefecture. Ito was accessible by JR train upon transfer from the main Shinkansen station. I had my itinerary well planned and referred to several maps and recommendations in advance in order to reach my hotel, the Ito Daiichi Hotel, which offers traditional Ryokan-style rooms with sleeping mats, as well as a traditional Japanese spa and hot springs. Upon check in at the hotel, I explored the town. For most of my stay in Ito, I was the only non-Japanese person there, as this sleepy town is mostly frequented by Japanese tourists. It has a very local feel to it, with its small shops that cater to local residents and tranquil beach on the Pacific Ocean.
The streets are small and narrow, and it is reminscient of a Japanese version of a Greek island, with white houses and pink street lanterns. It was very interesting to see a less busy and very local side to Japan. I had dinner at a seafood restaurant, where I got to sample fried fish and local cuisine. You really can’t go wrong with food in Japan, and every meal that I had exceeded expectations. Ito is a quiet town, and most restaurants and cafes close early. I headed back to my hotel for a nighttime hot tub experience in the fresh air, and went to bed early.
The next morning, I took the bus from Ito to Hakone. The bus took picturesque roads uphill on a foggy and misty morning. When I got to Hakone, it started pouring rain, for which I was highly unprepared. I got to walk around lake Ashi while doing my best to hide from the rain in the tall trees in the woods surrounding the rain. I was soaking wet, but the earth smelled great and the air felt very fresh. I managed to reach the place that I went to great length to see: The Shrine gate sitting right on the tip of a lake, which is a postcard-worthy site.
Hakone-Jinja Shrine, a Haiku Poem Captured in One Image
The gate feels immersed in the water, and overlooks the mountains across. Hakone offers countless tourist attractions, from hot springs, Odawara Castle, and cable car rides to reach the foothills of Mount Fuji and enjoy great views of the mountain. However, considering how wet and cold I felt with the rain. I took the bus back and spent the rest of the day at my hotel’s hot tub, while preparing to leave for Tokyo the next morning.
Tokyo: A Gigantic Mega Metropolis
After spending two nights in rural Japan, I continued on the Shinkansen bullet train about 100 kilometers to Tokyo Station, then transferring on the JR line to the Takanodababa station close to the Shinjuku district. From there, my hotel, the Rihga Royal Tokyo offered courtesy bus ride to the station. I had stayed at the Rihga Royal in Osaka, and was really impressed by their service, which included bus transfer (every 20-30 minutes) to and from nearby train stations and a navigation phone with a built in map of the city.
Tokyo, the World’s Largest City
My hotel for 4 nights was close enough to Shinjuku and was adjacent to a university (Waseda university), with a nice garden that I got to walk around.
Tokyo is a huge city that may feel overwhelming to some visitors. I was lucky to have had two good friends who lived there, who gave me tips on things to do, and whom I got to spend time with. Every neighborhood in Tokyo has its own distinct feel and is large enough to be a city on its own, so much so that it felt to me like Tokyo is a combination of different cities instead of one city. Instead of layout out my itinerary by day, I will split my recommendations each district I visited instead, all of which are easily accessible by Tokyo’s fantastic system, which is known as the busiest in the world. Luckily for me, I was able to avoid rush hour and got to enjoy the ride (and the city views) instead.
Shinjuku: Tokyo’s entertainment and nightlife district. Enormous, vertically stacked neon signs cover buildings and scream at visitors with bright colors advertising everything from tech brands, food and bars, novelty stores and even escort services. Shinjuku is made of several busy streets that with entertainment venues and shops packed on both sides. It is like being in a neon jungle, and is a feeling that can only experienced in Shinjuku. It’s easy to get carried away and want to explore every angle of this boisterous district. It is also famous for the Robot Restaurant, where guests can watch a robot show and be served by robots at their table, as well as the Don Quixote store, the biggest discount store in Japan packed with items and curious visitors.
Asakusa: Tokyo’s heritage district. Known for its deep red Senso-ji Buddhist Temple, Tokyo’s oldest temple with elaborate shrines and millions of visitors each year. It is surrounded by a several streets of neat kiosks selling authentic Japanese artisanal goods.
Akihabara: Tokyo’s tech and gaming sector. All lovers of anime and gaming must visit Akihabara. It is known for its tacky ‘Maid’ Café, blinking neon lights and countless gaming arcades.
Shibuya: Another one of Tokyo’s most popular entertainment districts with numerous bars and restaurants. It is mostly known for the world’s busiest street crossing, the Shibuya crossing (which me and my friend Maasa got to see from a vantage point above Shibuya station), as well as the statue of Hachiko, the loyal Akita dog who waited for its owner’s return at this street corner years after their death.
Harajuko: Tokyo’s center for youth culture and eclectic fashion, with nearby Ometesando street for more upscale shopping. Harajuko is a surreal experience, frequented by fashion-forward Japanese school girls sporting all kinds of avant-garde looks. That’s not all; for a more peaceful side to Harajuku, there’s the leafy Yoyogi Park and the Meji Shrine for a window into Shinto culture and religion.
Honorable Mention: Ueno Park and the Tokyo National Museum.
Japan Pros:
The Food: Everything tastes good in Japan
Culture
Polite and friendly People
Can be done on a budget (with proper planning in advance)
Nature
Urban life
Japan Cons
Can be expensive (especially for Taxis)
Metro system can be difficult to navigate without research
Language barrier situations
